DECKING
GLASS

For timber decking, you want a system that’s designed to work with the natural movement and structure of wood. Post-based systems are usually the most practical choice because they can bolt through your deck boards into the supporting joists underneath.

The key is making sure your posts are spaced to hit the joists – typically every 400-600mm depending on your joist spacing. This gives you the solid fixing points you need for a safe, wobble-free installation.

Frameless systems can work on decking too, but they need a more substantial base structure because all the loads go through the base channel rather than being distributed through individual posts. If your deck frame is built to handle it, frameless gives you that uninterrupted view that really makes a deck feel special.

Spigot systems are a nice middle ground – they give you the clean look of minimal posts while being easier to install than full frameless systems.

The secret is getting through the deck boards and into solid timber underneath. Most deck boards are only 32-38mm thick, which isn’t nearly enough to hold balustrade loads safely.

You’ll need coach bolts or hex bolts long enough to go through the deck board, through the joist, and still have enough thread for a washer and nut on the other side. For most installations, that means M12 bolts around 150-200mm long.

Mark your post positions carefully and drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the timber. Use large washers under the nuts to spread the load – this stops the bolts pulling through under stress. Some installers use backing plates under the joists for extra security.

The critical thing is hitting the centre of the joist, not just clipping the edge. Measure twice, drill once, because you don’t get second chances with structural fixings.

Yes, when properly installed and specified. Building regs for decking balustrades are the same as for any other application – minimum 1100mm height and able to withstand 0.74kN/m horizontal load.

The tricky bit with decking is proving your structure can handle these loads. Building control will want to see that your deck frame is substantial enough and that your fixings are appropriate for the loads involved.

Our kits include all the structural components you need, but the deck itself needs to be built to take balustrade loads. If you’re adding balustrade to an existing deck, it’s worth getting a structural engineer to check the frame can handle the extra stresses.

For new builds, make sure your deck designer knows you’re planning balustrade so they can beef up the structure accordingly. It’s much easier to build it right from the start than retrofit later.

For most residential decking, 10mm toughened safety glass is the standard choice. It’s thick enough to feel solid and safe, but not so heavy that it puts excessive loads on your deck structure.

If your deck is particularly exposed to wind or you’ve got longer spans between posts, 12mm glass gives you extra peace of mind. Commercial installations or very high decks sometimes need thicker glass, but that’s getting into specialist territory.

All our glass is toughened to BS EN 12150 standards, so it’s properly safety glass that breaks into small, relatively harmless pieces if damaged. For decking, we usually recommend clear glass to maximise the view, but frosted or tinted options are available if you need privacy.

The edge finish matters too – polished edges look better and are safer to handle during installation. It’s worth the small extra cost for the professional appearance.

Most of our decking kits are designed for competent DIY installation. If you’re comfortable with power tools, can work accurately, and don’t mind taking your time, it’s definitely doable.

The key skills you need are accurate measuring, drilling straight holes, and working methodically. The actual assembly is straightforward – everything’s pre-cut and the instructions are clear. It’s the preparation and fixing that needs care.

You’ll definitely need a helper for handling the glass panels safely. They’re not massively heavy, but they’re awkward and expensive to replace if dropped. Most people find it’s a two-person job from start to finish.

If your deck has any unusual features – curves, multiple levels, or tricky access – professional installation might be worth considering. Our approved installers have seen it all before and can handle complications that might stump a DIY installer.

Start by measuring the total length of balustrade you need, including any returns or corners. Each of our standard kits covers 1 metre, so a 6-metre run needs 6 kits plus corner components.

Don’t forget to account for corners and direction changes – these usually need special corner posts or additional fixings. Measure each straight section separately and add them up rather than trying to measure around corners.

For irregular shapes or multiple levels, sketch out your deck and mark the balustrade positions. This helps you spot any special requirements like different post heights or angled connections.

Our online balustrade calculator can help with the maths, or just give us a call with your measurements. We’ve priced up thousands of these installations and can spot potential issues before you order.

Post systems use individual stainless steel posts between glass panels. They’re easier to install because each post fixes independently, and they’re more forgiving if your deck isn’t perfectly level. The posts also give you convenient fixing points that line up with your joist spacing.

Frameless systems eliminate the posts entirely, giving you uninterrupted glass panels held in continuous base channels. The view is spectacular, but the installation is more demanding because everything needs to be perfectly aligned and level.

For decking, post systems are usually more practical. Timber decking naturally has some movement and settlement, and posts can accommodate this better than rigid frameless channels. They’re also easier to repair if something gets damaged.

Frameless systems work brilliantly on decking when the structure is solid and level, but they’re less forgiving of imperfections. The choice often comes down to your priorities – maximum view versus easier installation.